Beyond the postcards: my summer in Ischia (with sunsets, castles, and a few near-death bus rides)

If I had to describe Ischia in one word, it would be: alive.

But not in the loud, overwhelming way some big cities can be. Ischia’s kind of “alive” is full of contrast; it’s the kind of place where chaos and calm somehow coexist on the same narrow road. One moment you’re gripping the rail of a cliffside bus, heart in your throat, and the next you’re lying on a quiet beach, a pastry in your hand, listening to waves and distant chatter from local families.

The first time I discovered Ischia, it was just a day trip from Naples. I didn’t expect much, just a break from the noise and the heat. But something clicked that day.

A couple of years later, I skipped Naples entirely and took the ferry straight to Ischia, deciding to spend the whole week there. No jumping between islands, no rushing. Just the island, some slow days, and all the little moments in between.

I’ve always found Naples fascinating – raw, gritty, full of energy – but after a few days, the chaos starts to wear me down. I want out. Strangely, I never felt that way in Ischia. Even when the bus rides got wild or the beach was packed with umbrellas, it never tipped into stress. Maybe because the island gives you space to breathe when you need it — through a quiet hike, a tucked-away cove, or a sleepy sunset view over the sea.

This post isn’t a traditional travel guide. I won’t tell you where to stay (I went with Airbnb). But I will share how I got around, the places I loved most, some dinner spots worth trying, and the small, messy moments that made this trip one of my favorites so far.

Table of contents:

• Getting to Ischia
• Bus rides in Ischia: part public transport, part rollercoaster
  • Ischia bus tips for tourists:
• Aragonese Castle: touristy, but worth it
  • Aragonese Castle travel tips (from someone who went at the worst time):
• Mount Epomeo: from dusty shoes to the best view on the island
  • Tips for hiking Mount Epomeo:
• Sunset beaches and pastries on the sand
• Final thoughts

Getting to Ischia

There are a few ways to get to Ischia, but let’s be honest: none of them are exactly glamorous. Unless you’re arriving on a private boat (I wasn’t), your journey will likely involve navigating a crowded port, dodging people wheeling suitcases like bumper cars, and trying not to miss the next ferry.

The first time I went to Ischia, it was just a spontaneous day trip. I was already staying in Naples, not far from the docks, and after a few days of soaking in the city’s energy (and chaos), I craved a break. So, I figured a quick island escape might reset me. I didn’t expect much, but I ended up falling in love with Ischia instantly.

A few years later, I skipped Naples entirely. I took the train from Rimini again, but this time I went straight to the port and boarded the ferry. No detours, no overnight stay. I already knew what I wanted: a full week of sea breeze, slow mornings, and beach time on the island that had stuck with me.

Both times, I used the main ferry terminals in Naples, either Molo Beverello or Porta di Massa, depending on the ferry company. And while the ride itself is fine, getting through the port can feel like an obstacle course. Confusing signage, sudden boarding calls, and luggage zigzagging in every direction — it’s not the most relaxing way to start a trip. But once you’re on the boat and the city skyline starts to fade behind you, it already feels worth it.

If you’re flying into Naples, you can still make it to Ischia the same day. Take a taxi or the Alibus (airport shuttle) to the port, then hop on either a hydrofoil (faster but bumpier) or a regular ferry (slower but smoother). They both arrive in Ischia Porto, and from there, the real adventure begins.

Here’s a tip:

Screenshot your tickets before arriving at the port, especially if you don’t have an Italian SIM card. Signal tends to disappear just when you need to scan a QR code. And if the sea looks rough, go with the slower ferry – your stomach will thank you.

Bus rides in Ischia: part public transport, part rollercoaster

If you’re planning to rely on public transport in Ischia, there’s something you should know: the buses are efficient, affordable, and just slightly terrifying.

I took the bus everywhere – not because I love it, but because renting a car wasn’t an option. I’m not exactly a confident driver (understatement!), and there was zero chance I was getting on a scooter. To me, scooters are just bikes with engines, and I never learned how to ride a bike. So buses it was.

And those buses? Let’s just say every ride felt like a near-death experience and a sightseeing tour rolled into one. Picture this: narrow cliffside roads, hairpin turns, and a full-size bus taking them like it’s a kart in Mario Kart. The drivers are pros, no doubt, but sometimes it felt like all it would take was one sharp gust of wind or one overly ambitious swerve and the whole vehicle would just tip and tumble straight into the sea.

There were moments I genuinely wondered if I’d make it. I wasn’t trying not to fall into someone’s lap; I was trying not to fall off the bus entirely. I gripped the nearest pole like my life depended on it (because it kind of did), staring out the window as the wheels hugged cliffs that had no business being bus routes. Sometimes the bus was packed, other times surprisingly empty, but the adrenaline stayed the same. No matter how much space I had inside, the road outside was always tight, winding, and dramatic enough to make me question my transportation choices.

And yet… there was something kind of thrilling about it. The views were stunning – glimpses of the coastline, sleepy towns clinging to hillsides, bursts of pink bougainvillea – and even in the chaos, the people were helpful and warm. When Google Maps gave up on me, a local pointed out my stop. 

Ischia bus tips for tourists:

• Buy tickets before boarding. You’ll find them at most tabaccherie (look for a “T” sign) or at the main EAV bus terminal near Ischia Porto.
• Validate your ticket once on board — there’s a little yellow machine near the entrance.
• Sit near the front if you get motion sick, and avoid riding right after a big meal.
• Check schedules, but don’t rely on perfect timing, especially in high season.

Aragonese Castle: touristy, but worth it

If there’s one “classic” thing you’re expected to do in Ischia, it’s visit Castello Aragonese. And while I usually have a mild allergy to must-see tourist spots, I’ll admit — this one deserves the hype.

The castle is perched on a rocky islet connected to Ischia by a narrow stone bridge. You can spot it from just about anywhere on the eastern side of the island, and it’s the kind of view that makes you wonder what’s inside. So one day, right around lunchtime (mistake number one), I decided to find out.

Climbing the inner garden paths under the midday sun turned out to be a minor nightmare — no shade, stone steps, and the kind of heat that makes you question all your life choices. But I powered through, and the views from the top? Absolutely worth every sweaty step.

Despite the heat and the uphill climb, there were so many little details and viewpoints that made the castle worth exploring. Here’s a quick look at what stood out the most:

What you’ll see	Why it’s worth it
🏛️ Terrace with ancient columns	Frames the sea perfectly, ideal for photos and catching your breath
⛪ Stone chapels and monastery ruins	Atmospheric, quiet, and full of historical charm
🌀 Hidden staircases & corners	Easy to wander and discover lesser-known spots
🕳️ Underground passages	Cool escape from the sun; feels like stepping into the past
🌸 Gardens with Vivara views	Peaceful place to sit, snack, and take in a different perspective
🌅 Panoramic terraces	Incredible sea views from multiple angles, not just at the top

Once I made it to the highest terrace, I rewarded myself with a spritz at the small café up there. That’s where I met Pete, a very confident seagull who, without hesitation, decided that my little bowl of aperitivo peanuts belonged to him. He didn’t even wait for permission. I ended up feeding him one peanut, and that was it – we were bonded. He’s probably still up there terrorizing other spritz lovers.

After exploring the castle, I took a break in one of the quieter garden areas. It was shaded, peaceful, and the perfect spot to rest my legs and dig into the slightly squashed snacks I’d packed in my backpack. I had a lovely view toward the sea, and for a few minutes, it felt like I had the whole place to myself. Definitely one of those small, perfect moments that stick with you.

So yes, it’s touristy. Yes, it’s hot if you go at the wrong time. But also: yes, it’s absolutely worth it.

Mount Epomeo: from dusty shoes to the best view on the island

Hiking Mount Epomeo is one of those things you keep saying you’ll do “if there’s time.” Luckily, I made time — and I’m so glad I did. It was nothing like the beach days or castle visits. It was quiet, green, surprisingly wild, and gave me the kind of sweeping, jaw-dropping views that you just can’t get from sea level.

I took the most common route, starting from the village of Fontana. It’s a fairly short hike (about an hour each way), but don’t let that fool you — there’s a steady uphill section, and if it’s hot, you’ll feel every step of it. Still, it’s not overly technical. You don’t need hiking gear, just comfortable shoes, water, and a basic level of stamina.

The path winds through trees and open stretches of sun-drenched rock. Toward the top, the vegetation thins out, and you’re suddenly surrounded by silence and sky. And then — the view. From the summit, you can see the entire island laid out below you, with the sea stretching endlessly on all sides. On a clear day, you might even catch sight of Capri, Procida, or the edge of the mainland in the distance.

I spent a while up there just soaking it all in. Snapping photos. Enjoying the silence. Letting the breeze cool me off while I looked out at everything I’d been exploring from sea level just a few days earlier. After the crowded beaches and noisy bus rides, it felt like standing on top of a completely different island.

Tips for hiking Mount Epomeo:

• Start early or late afternoon to avoid peak sun.
• Bring water, sunscreen, and snacks. There’s nothing at the top except views, and they’re worth it.
• Wear real shoes. No sandals – there are rocky and uneven sections.
• The route from Fontana is the most popular and manageable. Allow 2–2.5 hours round-trip with breaks.
• Don’t rush. Half the joy is in the views along the way.
• Bringing your dog? Check out my tips for hiking with your dog to make sure they enjoy the adventure too.

Sunset beaches and pastries on the sand

Some of my favorite memories in Ischia came from doing the simplest things — relaxing by the sea, soaking in the late afternoon light, and waiting for the pastry vendor to appear like clockwork. I usually opted for comfort (give me a proper sunbed any day), but that didn’t stop the days from feeling beautifully laid-back and local.

Beach moment	What made it special
A sunbed, an umbrella, and a book	I need comfort to truly unwind — lying down to read, nap, or dry off after a swim. Worth every euro.
The castle-side rocks (just once)	The only time I used towels on rocks — uncomfortable, but the view was stunning.
Loud but relaxing	Kids shouting, waves crashing, beach rackets snapping — chaotic, yes, but never stressful.
Pastries on the sand	A beach vendor offered warm cornetti with custard, chocolate, or marmalade. I bought two, no regrets.
The water? Crystal clear.	You could see straight to the bottom. Perfect for cooling off before stretching back on the sunbed to dry.
The sunsets just happened	I never chased them, but the best ones found me, especially in Forio (like Citara), facing west.
A pizza kiosk that changed everything	Cheap, low-key, and probably the best pizza I had in Ischia. No frills, just flavor. See image below.
Restaurants that fooled me — in a good way	Near the docks, looked like tourist traps, had glowing TripAdvisor reviews… and ended up being genuinely good, fairly priced, and totally worth it.

There was no need to overthink it. Just pick a beach, grab a spot, and let Ischia do the rest.

Final thoughts

Ischia is noisy, messy, hot, and steep. But it’s also calm, beautiful, and unexpectedly grounding.

Somehow, the chaos never overwhelmed me. It balanced itself — buses and cliffs one minute, silence and sea views the next.

I didn’t plan much, but the best moments found me anyway: pastries on the beach, a sunset I didn’t chase, a seagull named Pete.

I’ll be back.