Walking into Pompeii felt surreal. I had read about it, seen photos, and imagined what it would be like. But standing at the entrance, stepping onto streets that have been frozen in time since 79 CE, was something else entirely. The city, once alive with people, markets, and daily life, now stands as a haunting reminder of the power of nature.
I knew Pompeii would be fascinating, but I didn’t expect to feel such a mix of emotions – curiosity, awe, and an undeniable sense of sadness. Walking past crumbling buildings and seeing the body casts of people who never escaped made the tragedy feel real. It wasn’t just an ancient ruin; it was a city that never got to move forward, forever trapped in that moment.
Pompeii: the ancient city with a tragic ending
Most people associate Pompeii with stories of doomed lovers and an abrupt, tragic end. But there’s another side to this Roman city that doesn’t get talked about as much. Pompeii had a wild, scandalous reputation. It wasn’t just a wealthy trade hub – it was a place where power, pleasure, and indulgence shaped daily life.
The ruins tell the story. Brothels, erotic frescoes, and statues that would make modern tourists blush are scattered throughout the site. The Roman elite didn’t shy away from displaying their desires in art, and Pompeii’s walls reveal just how open they were about it. Walking through these streets, it’s easy to imagine the city as it once was – vibrant, thriving, and maybe a little chaotic.
Getting lost in Pompeii (literally)
Pompeii is massive. You think you’ll follow the map and stay on track, but it’s not that simple. The city is a labyrinth of ruins, and the numbering system? Let’s just say it doesn’t always make sense. The deeper you go, the more confusing it gets.
My boyfriend and I were convinced we had a good sense of direction. Until we didn’t. At one point, we stood there, turning the map every which way, realizing that every street looked the same. If you visit, do yourself a favor: bring an audio guide and make sure your phone has enough data. You might need it!
Also, pack plenty of water and snacks. Seeing everything takes almost a full day, and if you’re visiting in summer, the heat is intense. Shade is scarce, and the sun can be brutal, so staying hydrated is essential! If you need ideas for healthy, travel-friendly snacks, check out my healthy snacks recipes.
Walking through time
Even with the occasional confusion, wandering through Pompeii is unforgettable. Every street, every building tells a story. I spent hours walking, imagining what life was like here 2,000 years ago. People shopping in the forum, stopping at food stalls, gathering in bathhouses. I could almost hear the echoes of daily life in the silence of the ruins.
It’s incredible how well-preserved Pompeii is. The volcanic ash that buried the city also protected it, giving us a rare glimpse into the past. Unlike many other ancient ruins, where only the foundations remain, Pompeii still has full streets, houses, and even painted walls. It’s one of the most immersive archaeological sites in the world.
A brief history of Pompeii
Pompeii’s origins go back to the 7th century BCE, likely founded by the Campanian Oscans before falling under Greek and Samnite control. It officially became a Roman colony in 80 BCE and thrived as a prosperous city – until disaster struck.
In 62 CE, a massive earthquake shook Pompeii, forcing many residents to flee. Some returned, rebuilding their homes and businesses. But just 17 years later, Mount Vesuvius erupted with terrifying force. The city was buried under volcanic ash and rock, preserving it exactly as it was at that moment. An estimated 2,000 people perished, their final moments captured in haunting body casts that you can still see today.
Pompeii remained lost for centuries until 1594, when an Italian architect accidentally stumbled upon the ruins while digging a canal. Excavations officially began in 1748, and today, about two-thirds of the city has been uncovered – making it one of the longest continuously excavated sites in history.
About ancient Pompeii
The origins of the ancient city are uncertain. However, it seems likely that Pompeii was founded in the 7th century BC by the Campanian Oscans. Over the next seven centuries of existence, the city fell to the Greeks and the Samnites. It became a Roman settlement in 80 BC, less than 200 years before being destroyed.
In AD 62, only 17 years before Vesuvius’ eruption, the city was struck by a major earthquake, and much of the city’s population was evacuated. Fortunately, many hadn’t returned by the time Vesuvius erupted, but 2000 men, women, and children perished, nevertheless. After its catastrophic demise, Pompeii faded away from the public eye until 1594, when the Italian architect Domenico Fontana stumbled across the ruins while digging a canal. However, the proper exploration of the site didn’t start until 1748. Since then, Pompeii has been one of the longest continually excavated archaeological sites in the world. Currently, 44 hectares of Pompeii’s original 66 hectares have been excavated (approx. 2/3 of the site).
What to see in Pompeii: Must-visit sights
Pompeii isn’t just another archaeological site. It’s a time capsule of ancient Roman life, frozen under ash and debris when Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 CE. Unlike other ruins, where you only see foundations, here you can walk down Roman streets, step inside homes, peek into shops, and even visit ancient bathhouses and brothels.
It’s one of the most immersive historical experiences you can have. But with so much to see, where should you start? Here are the top places you shouldn’t miss.
1. Antiquarium
📍 Best for: A quick history lesson before exploring.
Start your visit at the Antiquarium, Pompeii’s small museum. It’s the perfect introduction to the city’s history, with exhibitions on Roman life and a multimedia presentation that digitally reconstructs some of Pompeii’s buildings. Since it closes earlier than the rest of the site, it’s a good idea to visit first.
2. Temple of Apollo (Tempio di Apollo)
📍 Best for: Roman mythology lovers.
Pompeii’s oldest and most important temple, dedicated to Apollo, dates back to 120 BCE – though remains of an earlier version suggest it existed as early as the 6th century BCE. You’ll see statues of Apollo and Diana (copies – the originals are in the Naples Archaeological Museum) standing at the entrance.
3. Temple of Jupiter (Tempio di Giove)
📍 Best for: Impressive ruins and mythology fans.
Built in the 2nd century BCE, this temple was a hub for worshipping Jupiter, Juno, and Minerva. Today, you can still see its towering fluted columns and two triumphal arches. If you visit the museum in Naples, you’ll also find Jupiter’s giant stone head, which was discovered here.
4. Basilica
📍 Best for: Seeing where Roman justice happened.
Pompeii’s law courts and marketplace stood here in the 2nd century BCE. Look closely at the crumbling walls, and you’ll even find ancient graffiti left behind. Fun fact: The basilica’s semicircular apses later inspired the design of early Christian churches.
5. The Forum (Foro di Pompeii)
📍 Best for: Getting a feel for everyday life in Pompeii.
The heart of ancient Pompeii. Before the amphitheater was built, this was where gladiatorial games took place. It was also the center of political, commercial, and religious life – kind of like an ancient version of a town square.
6. Granary of the Forum (Granai del Foro)
📍 Best for: Seeing real body casts.
Once a fruit and vegetable market, the granary now holds about 9,000 artifacts, including amphorae and body casts of Pompeii’s victims. Among them is the cast of a pregnant enslaved woman, a haunting reminder of the tragedy that struck the city.
7. The market (Macellum)
📍 Best for: A glimpse into Roman shopping culture.
This was Pompeii’s main market, where locals shopped for meat, fish, and produce. Some of the frescoes found here even depict what was sold, showing prawns, fish, and meat stalls from 2,000 years ago.
8. Casa del Menandro
📍 Best for: Stunning frescoes and mosaics.
This luxurious Roman villa is one of the best-preserved houses in Pompeii. It has a colonnaded courtyard and beautifully decorated walls. If you step into the private bathhouse, you’ll find some of the site’s most exquisite frescoes.
9. Casa del Poeta Tragico
📍 Best for: The famous ‘Beware of the Dog’ sign.
Dating back to the 1st century CE, this house is famous for its ‘Cave Canem’ mosaic – the oldest known ‘Beware of the Dog’ sign in history. Inside, you’ll also find vivid frescoes depicting scenes from Greek mythology.
10. Casa del Fauno
📍 Best for: The biggest house in Pompeii.
This massive villa spans an entire city block, making it the largest private home in Pompeii. It’s named after the bronze statue of a faun, which still stands in its courtyard. Some of Pompeii’s most impressive mosaics were found here, most of which are now in the Naples museum.
11. House of Venus in the shell (Casa della Venere in Conchiglia)
📍 Best for: A peaceful garden setting.
This beautifully preserved house has a charming peristyle garden and a stunning fresco of Venus lying inside a seashell.
12. Villa of the mysteries (Villa dei Misteri)
📍 Best for: One of the best-preserved villas in Pompeii.
A short walk from the main ruins, this Roman villa still stands almost intact. Its walls are lined with the Dionysiac Frieze, a fascinating (and slightly eerie) fresco filled with mystical and ritualistic imagery.
13. The brothel (Lupanare)
📍 Best for: Seeing Pompeii’s risqué side.
One of Pompeii’s many brothels, the Lupanare was where clients indulged their desires. The walls are still covered in explicit frescoes and graffiti, giving visitors a peek into ancient Roman attitudes toward sex and pleasure.
14. Stabian baths (Terme Stabiane)
📍 Best for: Exploring Roman bath culture.
Pompeii’s largest bathhouse had separate sections for men and women. You can walk through its changing rooms, warm baths (tepidarium), and hot baths (caldarium). Look up in the men’s changing room – the stuccoed vault is stunning.
15. The amphitheater (Anfiteatro)
📍 Best for: Gladiator history.
Built in 70 BCE, this is the oldest known Roman amphitheater in the world. It once held 20,000 spectators, who came to watch brutal gladiatorial battles. One fresco found in Pompeii even depicts a fight between Pompeii and Nucera’s spectators in 59 CE, which led to a 10-year ban on games!
16. The large theatre (Teatro Grande)
📍 Best for: A grand Roman theater experience.
This huge 5,000-seat theater was carved into the lava bedrock of Pompeii. It’s still used for modern performances, so if you’re lucky, you might catch a live play here!
17. The small theatre (Teatro Piccolo)
📍 Best for: A more intimate performance space.
Unlike the large theater, Teatro Piccolo was used for musical performances and poetry readings. It had excellent acoustics and could seat about 1,300 people.
18. Palestra Grande
📍 Best for: Ancient Roman fitness culture.
This massive sports complex had an athletics field, a swimming pool, and a grand entrance from the Augustan period. It was used both as a training ground for gladiators and as a youth meeting center.
Final thoughts
Visiting Pompeii is like stepping into a time machine. It’s one of the most incredible, eerie, and immersive archaeological sites in the world. Walking its streets, you’ll step into ancient Roman life, from grand villas to haunting body casts. It’s a mix of awe, history, and tragedy that stays with you long after you leave.
To make the most of your visit, start early, wear comfy shoes, and bring an audio guide – you’ll need it! And if you get lost? Well, that’s just part of the adventure.
Have you been to Pompeii, or is it on your travel bucket list? Let me know at [email protected].